How to easily embroider purl on fabric
Purl is one of the most iconic metal threads in goldwork embroidery. It gives your designs that golden relief, crisp lines, and elegant outlines. In this article, discover how to apply purl using the Boulogne stitch, the basics of attaching it to fabric, and the mistakes to avoid for a uniform finish.
The definition of purl
Unlike cotton or silk embroidery thread, purl is a metallic thread that forms a spiral. It works with a logic of tension and stretching. Its structure allows it to give embroidery crisp and raised outlines, but it also makes it very sensitive to handling. Incorrect tension or too abrupt a movement often deforms the spirals irreversibly.
Preparing purl before attaching it
Before embroidering with purl using the Boulogne stitch, the purl is usually cut into segments and then lightly stretched to stabilize its shape.
At this stage, control of movement is more important than force: excessive tension can permanently alter the thread and create gaps in your work.
After stretching, the Boulogne stitch technique is used: a discreet holding stitch that traps the thread between its spirals. Simple in appearance, this action actually requires real sensitivity: too tight, the purl is crushed; too loose, it shifts.
All the secrets of purl application are revealed in our goldwork embroidery kits, such as in the Golden Bird or the Temple of Purl.
Purl: embroidering angles and curves
When starting goldwork embroidery, one first learns to lay purl in a straight line. Then come curves and angles with purl. Curved or angled areas require special attention.
The purl must be guided progressively to avoid:
- visual breaks
- irregular tensions
- spiral deformations
It is generally recommended to place fixing stitches in the angles to secure it. Also, a chenille needle or a mellor can help you to bend the purl correctly.
These are precisely the situations that all beginner embroiderers encounter and which are worked on in detail in our booklet, with clear illustrations for each case, particularly in the French Garden.
Finishing and securing purl
A successful purl application is judged as much by its beginning as by its end. This includes how to cut the purl ends, adjust, and finish the thread.
A good finish allows for:
- a continuous line without visible breaks
- perfect hold over time
- a jeweled effect characteristic of goldwork embroidery
Common mistakes to avoid
- pulling the purl too hard
- excessively spacing the fixing stitches
- neglecting initial preparation
- not cutting the ends
- forcing it in curved areas
True progress in embroidery always comes from the hands. Our Cannetille & Célestine kits are designed to guide you every step of the way: the materials are selected, the fabric is ready, and the illustrated technical booklet and explanatory videos for the stitches guide you gesture by gesture, including for the application of purl in every detail.
You don't have to search. You just have to embroider!
✦ Discover our goldwork embroidery kits and learn how to apply purl correctly → all goldwork embroidery kits
